various beadlock options.

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Matt
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various beadlock options.

Post by Matt »

I've been shopping around for a set of double beadlocks but have not been happy with what I found. I did however find a conversation kit that I can add to my new moabs to turn them into a double beadlock (weld in) I like the idea but am very concerned about the usability after its done. I also found a couple companies that make a insert you mount in the tire and air up through a different valve stem, I would pick up a set but unfortunately I have a problem with spinning the wheel inside the tires when wheeling so I have been running balancing beads in the tires so that I don't have to get all of my tires rebalanced every time I offroad I can't run the internal beadlocks and balancing beads at the same time so that really puts my between a rock and a hard place. I would appreciate any ideas or opinions. Thanks
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green50gt
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Re: various beadlock options.

Post by green50gt »

First off, what rig are you wheeling? What size tires, what current rims?

If you are running especially a double beadlock, then you won't have to worry about spinning a tire... Here is an awesome, Michigan based company that makes a outstanding product:

http://innerairlock.com/

Next, or lastly, if you want to get serious, Hutchinson Rock Monster wheels are a double beadlock and are DOT legal. If this is the route you'd like to go I can turn you onto a dealer that can get really good pricing - but you're still in the neighborhood of $500ish each.

http://www.rockmonsterwheels.com/
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Matt
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Re: various beadlock options.

Post by Matt »

I'm running 34s now but my 35s are in the mail so I'll be running 35s on moabs
I actually called innerairlock before posting this and they were the ones who told me I couldn't run balancing beads with them. I also told them about my problems with tires slipping on the wheels they said that it would improve on my problem but it was not likely it would be totally eliminated. I really love my moabs and don't want to get rid of them for beadlocks I would much rather modify the moabs to be beadlocks or run a inner beadlock set up like what innerairlock sells. I'm Just trying to get opinions on each.
Jeep KJ on 35s, front and rear lockers, front winch, Mile Marker 16,000 pound hydraulic rear winch, Warn XD9000 both have 1/2 inch viking synthetic line, front ARB bumper, custom rear bumper, and so much more.

Jeep XJ -1114 RTI- on 44" sticky compound super swampers, locked, lifted, stretched, long armed, on built Dana 60s comp cut 5.13 gears Mile Marker 8k waterproof winch lots more.

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White Rubi
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Re: various beadlock options.

Post by White Rubi »

Are you running the 16in mo rubi wheel?. I ran those with 38toyos. At 8psi and a big block chevy. Never once spun or even lost a bead. Hard to think your spinning a wheel in a rim with a stock transfer case. I think you said you're geared. Still cant see the tourq there. Id be thinking if so. Its the tires bead is small or not a good match for the rim.imo
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green50gt
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Re: various beadlock options.

Post by green50gt »

I've wheeled all sorts of stuff for years and never had the problem myself.. Nevertheless, just look at some of the rigs that inner airlock sponsors...rock bouncers, buggies, racers... I seriously doubt when your beads are sandwiched you are going to spin a tire...

Take a read or watch this video:

http://www.autoblog.com/2014/03/13/cama ... xed-video/

Moral of the story...media blast the inside of your wheels...
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Re: various beadlock options.

Post by radrick »

I am with the other two guys. I doubt that you are slipping a tire on the rim, I am guessing that the wheel weights are moving or slipping. Have you ever marked the weight/tire/wheel to see what is actually moving? Did the tire shop who mounted the tires/wheel use some super slippery mounting lube? Years ago when chrome steel wheels were cool, those wheels were worse than painted wheels for poping a bead off due to the chrome. But I cant recall ever hearong of a slipped tire on an off road situation. If you still want those wheels have you considered running bead screws- http://www.mickeythompsontires.com/tech.php?bulletin=s4
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Matt
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Re: various beadlock options.

Post by Matt »

I know without a doubt that my tires slip on the wheels because I have marked them. So far I have had this issue with my last 2 sets of wheels and tires. The moabs have been better than my last wheels but the problem has not gone away completely. Last fall I actually broke the tires down cleaned the beads and glued all of them this worked fantastic until 2 weeks ago when I aired down more than I thought and ended up losing a bead and had to clean all that crap out.

To answer white rubi I am geared and almost all of my off roading is done in 4 low. I have the newer 17 inch moabs not the 16s

I think I'm going to go with innerairlock, I like the cost of the bead screws but I don't feel comfortable doing it.
Jeep KJ on 35s, front and rear lockers, front winch, Mile Marker 16,000 pound hydraulic rear winch, Warn XD9000 both have 1/2 inch viking synthetic line, front ARB bumper, custom rear bumper, and so much more.

Jeep XJ -1114 RTI- on 44" sticky compound super swampers, locked, lifted, stretched, long armed, on built Dana 60s comp cut 5.13 gears Mile Marker 8k waterproof winch lots more.

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September 2016
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Re: various beadlock options.

Post by airforceret »

You're problem stems from making the wheel to smooth. Consider using an abrasive paint around the bead of the wheel where the tire meets the rim. You can also try bead blasting the wheel and then paint it with some textured paint. Use a soapy water solution to mount the tire on the wheel, run it at full air pressure for a bit and get some heat in the tires, then you should be good to air down. If you run less than 8 pounds you will significantly increase the odds of breaking the bead on a standard tire/wheel combination.

Oh yeah, and do not use any type silicone based sprays, shines, or cleaners on your tires or wheels.
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