Michiana Jeep Club

So from many ears listining to my 2000 TJ consensus was a bad rod bearing. Have good oil pressure and does not miss.

1) How do I verify this?..remove oil pan...cap and wiggle?
2) Can the engine now go to a stroker 4.2 and at what cost?
3) Rebuild vs engine swap
4) short block shot..can I still sell as a core...long block upper still good...can that be sold?

leaning towards looking for another engine for swap.

i'll give ya $1500 for it the way it sits.....

I would rebuild it, but that's me. You can get a remanufactured crankshaft with matching bearings for $200 and while you are there do the rings, $125, with a complete gasket set for $150. Have the block honed and possibly bored(need pistons) for $200? at a machine shop. So you could rebuild the bottom end for say $750.

You can get a complete remanufactured engine including the head for under $2k.

You could do a stroker kit which would cover all the necessary rebuild parts, crank, pistons, rings, etc. for about $1,500 bucks, http://www.shop.505performance.com/prod ... egoryId=24. I'm excited for you and this great opportunity!

I'd rebuild it.
I would go with some nice keith black (or your favorite piston), and nock it out .030
Highly reccomend you balance the rotating assembley as well - if you dont do that type of thing, have the machine shop do it for you. Would also be a great oppertunity for, roller rockers, roller lifters, cookie grind out all your oil passages prior to taking the block in (then have it hot tanked), perhaps even a cam that meets you style of driving? Some awesome Eagle rods would be kool too!!! he he he!!!!

i have a northstar aluminum v8 , the 300hp version, its for sale...

I have most of the parts you would need to make a stroker for sale.

gunguy wrote:I have most of the parts you would need to make a stroker for sale.

USE George's parts with a good set of forged pistons, bore it .060 don't mess with .030 it'll take .030 just to make it straight and the 4.0 block can SAFTLY be bored .125 can you say 5.0 Inline 6
4.0 std bore + 258 crank = 4.5
4.0 + .030 + 258 crank = 4.6
4.0 +.060 + 258 crank = 4.7

4.0 + .125 + 258 crank = 5.0 the only real problem is FUEL gas C14 0r higher or ALCOHOL

Any engine with 70k + mi, being rebuilt should start with a bore as the block is no longer straight & the holes are no longer round

VeniVidiVici wrote:

gunguy wrote:I have most of the parts you would need to make a stroker for sale.

USE George's parts with a good set of forged pistons, bore it .060 don't mess with .030 it'll take .030 just to make it straight and the 4.0 block can SAFTLY be bored .125 can you say 5.0 Inline 6
4.0 std bore + 258 crank = 4.5
4.0 + .030 + 258 crank = 4.6
4.0 +.060 + 258 crank = 4.7

4.0 + .125 + 258 crank = 5.0 the only real problem is FUEL gas C14 0r higher or ALCOHOL

Any engine with 70k + mi, being rebuilt should start with a bore as the block is no longer straight & the holes are no longer round

All depends where you want to go with the build... Mild to Wild, Cheap to Expensive... Just look at Madcow 468CID BBC, Forged Crank, Eagle Rods, Full Roller Top End, Cam that was actually designed to EAT NO2... LOL... I'd should have just built a 540, dag-nab it!!!


Maybe we should just have a VOTE on what John should build??? he he!!!

Let me throw in a wrench ( another thought) You have an automatic trans right? I have not heard the noise but with the effort of R&R the engine, I would want to know for sure before I started spending time and money. With all the moving mass that turns with the crank, is it possible it could be a torque converter or a broken flex plate? Is there any way to track down the noise if the Jeep was on a hoist in the air? Sorry your Jeep is ailing.

Thanks all..will talk this sat George. Bondo..yes i need correct diagnosis..
yes auto trans..
q.. will I need a new computer after 60 over?

Correct diagnosis critical!!! Old computer will work.

Ive heard this rattle before many times. It increases as you accelerate and rattle decreases as it comes back to idle.
As it can mimic a cracked flex plate. Its very heavy metallic. Sound. Need pull pan off ....... its just a sound. Once you hear it. It just sticks with ya .... like the sound of a axle snap. You just know that sound. Lol .... we heard it pass our motorhome while we was inside. Its that loud.

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f126/new ... k-1376466/
little bit of a drive,bout 12 hrs or so

I didn`t get a real good listen to it but the last time I heard it it sounded like a bad case of timing slap.....

Lose timing chain noise will go away under exceleration or d celleration will not continue ....

Duff wrote:Correct diagnosis critical!!! Old computer will work.

X2 will need 5.0 Mustang Injecters I believe 21 lbs and possibly an adjustable CPS

bondojones wrote:Let me throw in a wrench ( another thought) You have an automatic trans right? I have not heard the noise but with the effort of R&R the engine, I would want to know for sure before I started spending time and money. With all the moving mass that turns with the crank, is it possible it could be a torque converter or a broken flex plate? Is there any way to track down the noise if the Jeep was on a hoist in the air? Sorry your Jeep is ailing.

indeed terry, i just diagnosed a loose torque converter about a month or two ago, to everyone's amazement, but i have heard that noise before.....

Sad day @ the Slayter home. Without removing the oil pan we are pretty sure the #5 rod bearing is stacked. Dropped the oil and what a glitter show! Now, decisions, decisions.....

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zuk524 wrote:Sad day @ the Slayter home. Without removing the oil pan we are pretty sure the #5 rod bearing is stacked. Dropped the oil and what a glitter show! Now, decisions, decisions.....