Michiana Jeep Club

A few weeks ago our Commander started kicking in the traction control when backing out of the driveway or when making sharp turns at low speeds. I had my own theories on the problems so, here's how it went. Before I get too far into what I replaced/fixed... I was driving on the toll road at 65-70 mph when clunk!!! the transmission shifted into 3rd gear and would not come out (this is called "Limp Mode"). Took it in and they replaced the valve body. Tranny seems to be working fine now but, still have the TC issue. I replaced the front wheel bearings including the speed sensors. Did not fix TC problem. I replaced the tires. Did not fix TC. I replaced the rear brakes (fronts are not bad). Did not fix TC. I changed the transfer case fluid. Did not fix TC. I had an alignment done. Still did not fix TC. This all was done in the past week and I'm still getting the traction control kicking in. There are no lights that come on the dash you can just feel it kicking in when turning corners. I'm at a total loss of what to do next. Anyone have ideas? Oh, I've also tried to reset everything by disconnecting the battery (several times).

is it a locking diff in the back , maybe an issue with the clutches there?? i dont know much about lockers but seems like something to check

Commanders don't have a rear locker. The traction control is a braking of an individual wheel if the speed sensor shows that wheel is moving faster than the other wheel on the same axle. When the brake is applied to the spinning wheel it will cause resistance and allow more power to the slower moving wheel through the spider gears. There is some difference allowed for turning corners. So that being said if the traction control is kicking in the computer is sensing a difference in the wheel speed on the rear axle. Check tire pressure first as more than a few pounds difference will cause a change in tire size which translates to a speed differential. You said you changed the brakes, did you inspect the tone rings for dirt/mud? You can change the sensors but they usually work or they don't. Check the sensor wires as I have heard of them rubbing through the insulation and grounding causing intermittent problems. Are there any noises indicating a wheel bearing that could be dragging? If there is no light on the dash it may not be the traction control at all.

Mediocre wrote:Commanders don't have a rear locker. The traction control is a braking of an individual wheel if the speed sensor shows that wheel is moving faster than the other wheel on the same axle. When the brake is applied to the spinning wheel it will cause resistance and allow more power to the slower moving wheel through the spider gears. There is some difference allowed for turning corners. So that being said if the traction control is kicking in the computer is sensing a difference in the wheel speed on the rear axle. Check tire pressure first as more than a few pounds difference will cause a change in tire size which translates to a speed differential. You said you changed the brakes, did you inspect the tone rings for dirt/mud? You can change the sensors but they usually work or they don't. Check the sensor wires as I have heard of them rubbing through the insulation and grounding causing intermittent problems. Are there any noises indicating a wheel bearing that could be dragging? If there is no light on the dash it may not be the traction control at all.

Mediocre is ON IT! Also, it's always a plus to read the codes (if its shooting any), my GM truck (idk if my Liberty or XJ will) will actually tell me which speed sensor is acting up, and I typically have to reset the code when I do a wheel bearing b/c the sensor gets unplugged in the wrenching process.

Thats part of the problem, its not throwing any codes. I was just disconnecting the battery in case it needed reset.
I checked tire pressure and they're good. I now know for a fact it is the tc because I was able to pull the fuse for it last night and it went away. Put it back in and the issue is back.

There is a TSB on it. You will have to take it to the dealer and have it flashed

http://www.xkjeeps.com/tsb/tsb_xk_1801409.pdf

Oh really? Thanks.

Well, that didn't work. $100 to have it flashed... didn't fix anything. Another $100 to have it diagnosed and now they're telling me that it's the Front Differential case (or carrier) assembly. Quoted $2300 to replace! Are you kidding me? Anyone know a good shop where I can get a second opinion?

Now they say it's WHAT??? The entire FRONT AXLE basically - lmao!!!! Wow... Hate to be negative, but that is total garbage! What axle is under the front end of that POS?

Perhaps I don't understand the "new" POS front axle's (YET, LOL) but i do rip apart plenty of Diff's...
Unless there is some type of speed sensor reading off the spinning carrier (like some of the Fords (rear axle 8.) how could the diff be the problem??? Does the diff clunk, bang, pinion bearing loose/shot??? Is there a brake line collapsed broke someplace on the front end??? Ohm out the wheel speed sensors (if that's possible?), bent axle shaft C/V jack shaft eating wheel speed sensors??? Perhaps a compound problem (ie) Brake module/Traction Control module causing problems b/c it wants to lock up a brake and can't???? I can honestly say I don't know the fix off hand - but a new front axle seems like a stretch.

You don't wheel that rig - right? So it's most likely a road wear type thing, component failure deal - not abuse???

Uh oh, it ain't your father's limited slip. The commander has eLSD, Electronic Limited Slip Differential in the front axle. According to Eaton who makes one its got smarts inside.

http://www.eaton.com/Eaton/OurCompany/NewsEvents/NewsReleases/PCT_211712
The new UltraPosi™ differential is located inside the transaxle and it receives input from the existing brake, wheel-speed, steering-wheel, throttle, yaw and lateral acceleration sensors to ensure each wheel is receiving sufficient torque. In the event of slippage it instantaneously engages a hydraulic power supply to transfer extra torque to the wheel with the most traction by modulating the differential from fully open to fully locked, and anywhere in between, depending on driving conditions.

http://auto.howstuffworks.com/elsd2.htm
So basically the amount of limited slip is controlled from input into the diff and handled by the diff. Your Commander doesn't have this exact unit but would work in a similar fashion. I would image the amount of clutch engagement would be dependent on the input wire where the computation for it would come from the vehicles computer.

Did you plug a reader into the ODBCII port? Take it to a parts place, Autozone, Advanced, etc. and have them plug it in. Then you can look up the code and see what it says. Unless there was a code I don't know how the dealer would have defined the issue as the diff.

No I did not plug a reader into the ODBCII port becasue it hasn't thrown a code. No check engine light, no warning light nothing on the dash. Would it still find a code just by pluging in a reader?

Yes, even without a check engine light it can have a code. If the dealer looked at it they may have cleared the code so make sure it does it again and then check for a code.

So, last night I changed the front diff fluid and made sure I put the friction additive in it too. I also put some additive in the transfer case. After driving it for a while the problem has gone away. I'm not 100% convinced its totally cured yet but we will see.